jueves, 16 de agosto de 2012

Angelo Felgueiras de Brasil a la cima del Vinson

Imagem Activa
Angelo Felgueiras (Brasil) conquistó la cima del Monte Vinson en enero 2012


2012 - JANEIRO - ANGELO FELGUEIRAS ATINGIU O PONTO MAIS ALTO DA ANTARCTIDA.
O nome do Maciço de Vinson teve origem no nome do congressista americano Carl G. Vinson que persuadiu o governo dos Estados Unidos a promover uma expedição ao continente Antárctico. Com condições climatéricas extremas, a escalada do Vinson é um grande desafio.

A temperatura atinge frequentemente os 40ºC negativos podendo no entanto descer bastante devido aos fortes ventos.Em 1966, a expedição americana liderada por Nicholas B. Clinch e patrocinada pela National Geographic Society, National Science Foundation e American Alpine Club, levou a cabo a primeira ascensão do Vinson.A subida do cume antárctico pode levar entre 2 dias e dois meses, estando dependente da preparação física da equipa e das condições meteorológicas.
2012 - JANEIRO - ANGELO FELGUEIRAS ATINGIU O PONTO MAIS ALTO DA ANTARCTIDA.


Monte Vinson, 4897 msnm


Monte Vinson
Monte Vinson

Vinson, monte (4.897 msnm)

Cordillera Centinela (Antártida)


Monte más alto del continente de la Antártida, de 4.897 metros de altura sobre el nivel del mar, situado en la cadena de los montes Ellsworth, en la cordillera Centinela, catalogada por primera vez en 1958. Forma en sí un macizo homónimo. Desde el punto de vista técnico su ascensión no presenta grandes dificultades, aunque la climatología extrema del continente lo convierte en un reto alpinístico importante, además de ser uno de los seven submits o siete cumbres, las más altas de los cinco continentes.
La población más cercana al monte Vinson es la base canadiense de Patriot Hills.
La primera ascensión al monte Vinson culminó el 18 de diciembre de 1966 a cargo de Nicholas B. Clinch, J.B. Corbet, E. Fukushima, B. Marts, P. Shoening, S. Silverstein.

Información básica

  • Unidad de relieve: Cordillera Centinela
  • País: Antártida (Antártida)
  • Cumbre principal
  • Región: Montes Ellsworth
  • Altitud: 4.897 msnm
  • Latitud: 78º 32' S
  • Longitud: 85º 38' O

domingo, 5 de agosto de 2012

Mundo Explora - Costos

EXPEDICIÓN AL MONTE VINSON (4.897 m)

Volver

 


Tipo de viaje: 
Montañismo
Duración: 14 días 
Temporada: de noviembre a enero
Código: EX101

Mundoexplora viajes exóticos y expediciones
http://www.mundoexplora.com/ex101.htm

PRECIO POR PERSONA

desde  27.600 €  (US$ 35.850)

INCLUYE
  • Vuelos Punta Arenas - Patriot Hills-Punta Arenas
  • Vuelos entre Patriot Hills y el campo base del Monte Vinson (ida y vuelta)
  • Equipo grupal para la ascensión
  • Alojamiento en tiendas de campaña en la Antártida
  • Pensión completa en la Antártida
  • Guía de alta montaña de habla inglesa con experiencia antártica
  • Bolsa/petate de expedición Mundoexplora
NO INCLUYE
  • Vuelos España - Punta Arenas (aprox. 1.200 €)
  • Equipo personal de montaña.
  • Alojamiento, traslados y comidas fuera de la Antártida
  • Gastos por rescate de emergencia
  • Seguro de viaje. Es un requisito contar con seguro especial médico y de rescate.
  • Propinas
  • Extras no especificados.
FORMA DE PAGO

Señal del 10.000 € en el momento de la confirmación de la reserva para poder garantizar la plaza. El importe restante puede pagarse hasta 90 días (3 meses) antes de la fecha de salida.

ver más información en http://www.mundoexplora.com/ex101.htm

otra forma de llegar

Para ver más información:
http://www.adventurepeaks.com/expeditions/mt_vinson.htm

Mt Vinson

Altitude 4897m, Duration 19 days, Grade 3C (grades)

A Stunning Mountain in an Extreme Enviroment
Climb Mt Vinson on Antarctica With Adventure Peaks

Background

Antarctica is a land of dreams; a pristine environment of epic proportions and extremities. For half of the year, when there is 24 hours of daylight, the snow really does shine whiter than white. Mount Vinson occupies a grand position at the base of the Antarctic Peninsula; the coldest, most windswept continent on earth. The elegant symmetrical pyramids of the Ellsworth Mountains give rise to the complex high-glacial massif of Vinson itself. From its peak you will be awestruck by the clarity of the views to the nearby peaks of Mount Shinn and Mount Gardner, and far beyond the South Pole. The route taken is a low technical climb, but we are in a potentially extreme environment that will offer a real physical and mental challenge. It is advisable to book at least 6-9 months in advance. 
Start dateEnd DateDaysPrice*Availability
19th Nov 20127th Dec 201219$ 37250.00Places availableBook Now
1st Dec 201219th Dec 201219$ 37250.00Places availableBook Now
13th Dec 201231st Dec 201219$ 37250.00Places availableBook Now
25th Dec 201212th Jan 201319$ 37250.00Places availableBook Now
6th Jan 201324th Jan 201319$ 37250.00Places availableBook Now



Información sobre el Vinson

Preguntas Frecuentes acerca de las expediciones al Monte Vinson
por www.alanarnette.com/7summits/vinsonfaq.php


Transcribimos lo que dice el autor:


About Vinson

Q: Where is Vinson 

A: 600 miles from the South Pole, Mount Vinson was first summited in 1966 by climbers led by Nicholas Clinch from the American Alpine Club and the National Science Foundation, it was the last of the 7 Summits to be conquered. It was named after US Senator and Antarctica supporter, Carl Vinson. It is in the Sentinel range of the Ellsworth Mountains. Just getting there is an adventure involving a 4 hour, 2000 mile plane trip on a Russian IIyushin 76 cargo plane from the tip of South America to the snow camp of Union Glacier. Once there climbers are ferried another 35 minutes via a Twin Otter to Vinson base camp. View Vinson on a larger map.

Q: When is it usually climbed?
A: Climbs usually take place between December and February. - the 24 hours of sunlight a day summer in Antarctica.

Q: I understand that Vinson is easy.
A: It is straightforward with mostly glacier travel but the climbing is not the challenge for Vinson; it is the weather and the logistics of getting in and out of Antarctica. 

Q: How does Vinson compare with Denali or Rainier?
A: It is easier than Denali since it is shorter - if the weather is not brutal. We sat in our tents at Low Camp for 6 days waiting for 50 mph winds to ease on the summit ridge. Similar to Denali, you are pulling a sled with personal and group gear but the loads are lighter. Even though the summit is about 16,000', the effective altitude is about 2,000' higher.

Q: Is a Vinson climb dangerous?
A: Absolutely. While there have been no deaths on Vinson, which is remarkable, there are cases of serious frostbite. The primary issue is that in case of a life threatening emergency, it could be days or weeks to get you back to a full hospital given the severe weather conditions.

Q: How many people had summited and how many people had died trying?
A: An estimated 1,200 climbers have summited Vinson at an extremely high success rate. There have been no deaths.

Training, Gear & Communication:

Q: How did you train for this climb?
A: My normal of climbing my local Colorado 14ers plus daily workouts with weights and on an elliptical machine.

Q: Was altitude a problem on this climb?
A: Not a big issue given it is 16,000'. However the barometric pressure is quite low at both Poles so the available oxygen per breath is lower than the given altitude compared to other big mountains thus from a cardiovascular perspective, it felt like it was 18,000'.

Q: What kind of equipment did you use?
Click for a larger view of my Everest gear.A: Mostly I use the same gear I used on Everest. Lot's of layers. My personal technical equipment included a long handle ice axe, harness, carabineers and crampons. It is always critical to protect my toes, fingers and face since these were most susceptible to frost bite. As for warmth, I always wear a knit cap and at least liner gloves when I get the least bit cool - regardless of the outside temp. I use a 3 layer system of Merino wool base layer (top and bottom), heavier fleece as in the Mountain Hardware Power Stretch (a Farmer's John kind of suit) or just my Patagonia Guide Pants depending on how cold it is that day then my top wind or warmth layer e.g. Patagonia Micro Puff and/or JetStream Shell. When the winds pick up and the temps hover at -30F, I add my Feather Friends 850 Fill down jacket plus my mitts which I never used on Vinson. I have a gear page for reference. I am very pleased with all my gear but had a few standouts that I note on my gear page.

Q: Anything special in your gear for Vinson?
A: I tool almost everything on my gear page under 8000m climbs except the full down suit. It can be extremely cold and windy so multiple down layers are required. My boots were the Kayland 8001, an integrated gator boot with a separate inner boot similar to the Millets or Olympus Mons. Some people climbed in double plastics with overboots. I was never cold. I used a new sleeping back from Mountain Hardwear, the Wrath -20 and was very pleased. Also used the ExPed Down mat 9 on top of a z-pad. I was warm and comfortable.

Q: Did you use a satellite phone?
A: For details on my expedition communications, please see this tutorial. I used an Iridium phone with good results to post updates to this website. I used HumanEdge technology's Contact 5 expedition dispatch software.

Expedition Basics

Q: Which route is most popular?
A: There is really only one primary route from the West side which follows the Branscomb Glacier with two intermediate camps. In 2001 a team climbed via the East Face. In late 2008, one team climbed via the Dater/Hinckley glaciers to the Shinn Col before joining the normal route. 

Q: How long will it take?
A: A Vinson climb can be incredibly short. With zero weather delays, you can arrive at Union Glacier, fly to Vinson Base Camp, climb to Low Camp then High Camp and summit plus return in about a week. But this almost never occurs. Count on three weeks with weather delays.

Q: How much does a standard climb cost with and without a guide?
A: The costs can range from $34,000 to $50,000 depending on who you use. See my Guide page for more details. The cost is so high due to the logistics of just getting to Antarctica. Once you are there you can see why . 

Q: Do I need a permit to climb?
A: There are no permits but you must use Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions(ALE) to fly to Antarctica since they are the only ones to fly there. 

Q: Do I really need a guide for Vinson?
A: Yes, ALE requires a guide to climb unless they approve you as an exception with proper experience and a team of 3 or more - don't count on it. They can provide a guide or any of the other guide companies will provide one. 

Q: How do you get on an expedition to climb Vinson?
A:
 Most reputable guides ask for your climbing resume and require some climbing experience. Ideally they want to see climbs of Rainier or Colorado or California 14ers. But most anyone can get on a Vinson commercial expedition these days without many questions. The guide services all run the same basic formula and are very conservative with weather, safety and risks. I believe ALE has a minimum age of 18 to fly to Antarctica. 


miércoles, 1 de agosto de 2012

nuestra visión: Desafío Monte Vinson




Nuestra Visión

En el marco del proceso del 30 aniversario del ingreso de Uruguay al Tratado Antártico, revivir la utopía de los visionarios como el Profesor Julio César Musso, bajo la premisa: “Persiguiendo utopías, conquistaremos realidades”, concretar la realización de una expedición uruguaya a la zona de los Montes Ellsworth en la Antártida, realizar investigaciones científicas relacionadas a la actividad del Tratado Antártico y escalar el pico más alto del continente antártico, el Monte Vinson, haciendo ondear el Pabellón Nacional en su cima por primera vez.